"It's more interesting to have just a picture of a small detail - then you can dream all the rest around it. Because when you see the whole thing, what is there to imagine?" -Dries Van Noten

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

RAFW '10/'11 wrap | TANGENT MAGAZINE |


Words: Leni Andronicos

All good things eventually come to an end, and so here at Tangent we are wrapping up our Rosemount Australian Fashion Week coverage with a little about what we loved and loathed as well as all the highlights from front-row, backstage and the very anticipated after-parties.


So what’s a better way to kick things off then with our favourite collection of the week? The title for ‘best collection’ goes to avant-garde genius, Konstantina Mittas. Her collection ‘The Night of Enithromons Joy’, was exactly as the pre-show brief read, it revealed ‘a paradoxically futuristic world of myth ruled over by Greek Moon Goddess Hecate.’ The show was opened by total babe and one of our favourite models of the week Alexandra Agoston O’Connor, swamped in a nude floor-length gown supported by a diagonal collar of ridiculous proportions in true Konstantina style. The collection continued with an array of fierce cuts and sculptured bodices, in shades of canary, frost and black. Expectations were high, and Mittas delivered.


RAFW is celebrated right around the world for not only the beauty of our designer collections but the theatrics involved in their debut. We anticipated the title of ‘greatest theatrics’ to be one of the hardest to award, but without doubt the title goes to, Romance Was Born and their Renaissance Dinosaur show. Design duo, Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales are notorious for their interpretation of performance, but no one expected to be literally blown out of this world when a show ten times as wondrous as their last was promised this year round. A runway made from stone and bark, adorned with crystals and incense swept a sense of nostalgia through the hall at the University of Sydney, while the sound of stomping dinosaur feet signaled the start of the show. After models in heavily embellished looks flooded from the smog-disguised cave at the start of the runway, classic Madonna welcomed a medieval bride straddling the shoulders of a male companion, while the show was closed with a standing ovation.


Tangent’s award of best hair goes to Gail Sorronda for her towering hornet nests that beautifully complemented the billowing layers of her classic smock-style dresses.


Best make-up goes to the team at Birthday Suit for their brilliant bursts of fluorescents and the wildest body-art goes to Camilla, for her two Avatar-esque dancers that opened the show (after a rumored six hour prep time!)


After an international season of the return of classicism and neutrals to the runway, it was surprising to note the number of prints at this year’s event. Young designer and LMFF award winner Dion Lee, takes out best print for his use of physcadelic, crystal-dyed fabric in shades of lilac, royal blue and blood orange.


The award for deceptive cleverness goes to Gary Bigeni for his use of architectural shapes, drapes and clever twists, tucks and folds. He never ceases to amazes his audiences with his use of colour and so Bigeni also takes out best use of blocked colour.


Most conceptual collection goes to Anthony Capon, Project Runway winner and designer behind A concept. An androgynous collection featuring exaggerated shoulders, detailed mesh and a plethora of black patent leather was in pure Capon flamboyance.


All these futuristic movements supported by innovation and forms of structure, must be balanced out and for that, the award of feminine fantasy goes to Courtney Meyer, designer behind Miss Unkon. Model’s clad with daisies danced down the schoolyard themed runway in ruffles and pleats of vintage-floral print and musk chiffon. The collection ‘Love is like a dreamland’ took us all on a journey back to the days of when we first fell in love.


Amongst shows by some of Australia’s most celebrated design veterans, we were exposed to the brilliance of our new generation designers. The Tangent award for best emerging designer goes to Christopher Dobosz for his wild accessories including light-up sunglasses and his play on folds, lines and shapes cascading down each garment. Although, Elliot Ward-Fear, who has since been compared to international design gods by the likes of Gareth Pugh and Herve Leger, closely followed Dobosz’s success.


Wildest model goes to Avril Alexander for her backstage flirtatiousness and mischievous antics, while sexiest runway strut goes to the model’s at Fernando Frisoni.


The shoes most likely to cause injury? That award goes to Elliot Ward-Fear for his 8-inch platform booties. Thankfully enough, only one model made the crash.


And last but not least, worst hangover from the best after-party? That goes to Fernando Frisoni and Kirrily Johnson for their ‘Rukus’ party, which took place at the North Bondi Italian Food and was attended by guests including Lara Bingle, Maurice Terzini, Dion Lee, Michelle Jank and Dan Single.


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